Part 2: Into Calabria – Long Straights, High Passes, and the Southern Coast
As road trips go, this section marked a clear shift. We left the crafted stone of Matera and crossed into deeper southern territory, aiming for Calabria, a region less photographed, less talked about, and, as it turns out, far more rewarding from behind the wheel.
Over five days we ran a variety of terrain, motorway tunnels, wide coastal arteries, and tighter mountain passes. The car felt good here, with room to stretch out and flex across surfaces that ranged from billiard-smooth to unpredictable. This was also the first real test of long-distance routing with unexpected changes, and the New Roads platform proved its worth with alternative route suggestions and spot-on food and beach recommendations.
Day 1: Matera to Gizzeria Lido (via Trebisacce)
Start/End: Alberobello
Stay: Hang Loose Cottage Hotel & Resort, Gizzeria Lido
Leaving Matera early, we pointed the car south-west and picked up the SS7, before moving onto SP3 Jonica. This early section set the tone: long straights, golden farmland on both sides, sweeping bends and minimal traffic. There’s a short tunnel just before the junction with the E90, and it opens up beautifully afterwards.
The E90 southbound, while technically motorway, feels more like a driver’s A-road — two lanes each way, elevated in sections, with consistent views across the Ionian Sea on the left and low inland hills to the right. The further south you head the tighter the road hugs the coast line. Roadworks are underway to build new tunnels and bridges through this region, and once complete, this will likely be one of the finest touring sections in Italy.
The road isn’t fast, but full of charm. We parked almost directly on the beach, walked five metres to a table at Lido Capri – “Il Ristorantino” Stabilimento Balneare, and had one of the best seafood lunches of the trip.
Back on the E90, we stayed with it until picking up the SS534 inland — a proper drive, this one. Mountain scenery started to dominate, the surface stayed consistent, and there’s a handful of long tunnels that break up the hill sections. It connects into the E45 near Tarsia, where you start climbing again, and the landscape closes in.
The E45/A2 stretch south of Reggio Calabria — often called “the road of tunnels” — is a dual carriageway that threads along steep drops and tight ridge lines, with elevated views and near-constant tunnels. This is where the drive starts to feel special again. The road is beautifully engineered, and coming downhill towards the coast feels fluid, not forced.
Day 2: Gizzeria to Gizzeria Alta via SP103
Two days in, we took a short but sharp run inland, climbing from sea level up to Gizzeria Alta on the SP103. This is a proper mountain road. Tight corners, rapid elevation change, and no margin for error in places. The surface is generally good, though you’ll want to be cautious on some of the tighter hairpins where vision is limited.
The platform flagged this as a “technical” segment, and it was right. For drivers in lighter, sharper cars – hot hatches, mid-engine coupes – this road is a dream. Enough room to place the car confidently, challenging enough to keep you focused, and at the top, a viewpoint that gives you a full sweep of the coastline below.
Day 3: Gizzeria to Tropea Coastal Loop
This day took us south, hugging the coastline via SS18 to Pizzo, then cutting across to Vibo Valentia before dropping into Tropea on the SS522. It’s a route that balances fast-flowing roads with tight inland sections, all set against a backdrop of coastal scenery and dense, green hills.
SS18 is the standout here. Two lanes, excellent surface, and that rare combination of driving pleasure with sea views. At times the road runs tight to the shore, flanked by tall bamboo, unexpected for Italy, and striking in golden-hour light. We’ll say it now: run this road at sunrise or sunset and you’ll remember it.
We didn’t stop in Pizzo, but we did stretch the legs near Vibo Valentia before picking up the SS522, which narrows and gets slightly more technical. Still a decent surface and not too much traffic, but you’ll want to stay alert, the corners come quickly and there are occasional slow-moving trucks to work around.
Tropea is a compact but lively spot, built on a cliff with views out to sea and old stone lanes winding back through the centre. We parked up on Via Lungomare and walked in. The Santa Maria dell’Isola church is worth the short climb. We hired a boat from Rental Boat Excursions-Shark Bay on the beach which was brilliant! €140 for 4 hours was money well spent exploring the turquoise coastline. Oh, and don’t forget to finish up at Gelateria Tonino. They served one of the best amarena gelatos we’ve ever had — sharp cherry, proper texture, old-school technique. Yum.
The Platform’s Role
Across this Calabrian section, New Roads performed faultlessly – although it didn’t predict the stampede of goats :). It found alternative routes that were beautiful and only 5-10% longer than the more direct A to B route. It picked up subtleties in timing that made real-world sense, suggesting later return times, smarter rest points, and refuelling options at the right moment rather than too early or too late.
It also proved its use outside of navigation. Restaurant and beach suggestions felt credible, not crowdsourced or tourist-led. And the hire of the boat suggestion was genius.
Next Up
The last leg would take us further south, across the Strait of Messina, and then into Sicily. The ferry crossing marked a new phase, one where the roads get wider, the tunnels more dramatic, and the landscapes even more intense.
From mountain passes to island coastlines, Journal Part 3 picks up from the port and follows the long drive west to Trapani, with a few scenic stops and detours along the way.
